Swapping the one ton tie rod ends and drag link ends from mid-80s Chevy Blazers onto the Early Bronco Dana 44 knuckles has become a pretty popular modification. Not only does it get create a newer, stronger setup, it is allows uses readily available parts, as opposed to hard to find original Bronco parts. A lot of people opt to use rod ends for steering components. I firmly believe that that is fine for a race car that gets serviced with ultra frequency, but it a street and trail machine, you are much better off using components Detroit designed for the abuse of life under a truck. And, since these are one ton parts on a half ton truck, all the better.
It is not a direct swap. In addition to measuring, cutting and tapping the tie rod (the bar that goes from knuckle to knuckle) and the drag ling (the bar that goes from pitman arm to tie rod), you have to use a 7 degree reamer on the knuckles to match the taper or the post on the rod ends. The amount of metal removed is negligible. You will need to buy or borrow the correct reamer (although some have done it with a grinding tool--but I don't like that approach).
You can do this as an over the knuckle or under the knuckle swap. Raising the tie rod will make it less likely to run into debris, rocks, whatever. However, it is likely that the new, larger tie rod is installed over the knuckle, it will interfere with the existing track bar bolt. There are a few solutions to this problem. The easiest is cut the bolt shorter and use a lower profile nut (a ball joint nut will work according to some--I'm not sure if it is the upper or lower ball joint nut). Or, you can raise the track bar mount.
I prefer the later solution, because it allows you to adjust your steering geometry in an effort to eliminate bump steer. The basic goal is to keep you drag link and track bar (the component that goes from the passenger side of the axle to the frame) parallel.
Here is a Parts, Materials, and Sources list compiled by Quinn Dusenberry. |
